YVES SAINT LAURENT: OBSESSING OVER THE MONDRIAN DRESS! By Loic Prigent

YVES SAINT LAURENT: OBSESSING OVER THE MONDRIAN DRESS! By Loic Prigent


Absolutely everything about the
Mondrian dress by Yves Saint Laurent. A visit of the YSL museum in the
public area and in forbidden rooms! All about one of the most famous
dresses of the 20th century! Hello I’m Loic Prigent,
with a video in French. No english accent! Hello English speakers! This is a video
in French but subtitles are available! 5 avenue Marceau, the former
headquarters of Yves Saint Laurent transformed into a fantastic YSL museum. Today there is an exhibition on one of the most famous dresses
of the 20th century: the Mondrian dress by Yves Saint Laurent. The exhibition is on the ground floor
but we go first in the reserves. Because, scoop, the Saint Laurent Museum of Paris has just bought a Mondrian
dress The exhibition is on the ground floor but we go first in the reserves. Because, scoop, the Saint Laurent Museum
of Paris has just bought a Mondrian dress that has not been restored yet
and is not in the exhibition. It’s coughing! Adress that has just been acquired
and will require a lot of restoration. Is this ready to wear? No, almost no ready to wear. This is the 1971 collection
with the famous Greek vases. The famous penis on the
navel of the wedding dress! Absolutely! This Yves! Do we take out one? Let’s go. The most iconic Mondrian dress is this one. Inspired
by “Composition with blue, red, yellow and black”. With a yellow stripe at the bottom. What date is it? It’s 1965. 1965? Yes. How come it’s in such perfect condition? I guess it wasn’t worn a lot… May we look at the drawings? Let me show you the drawings. It’s intriguing because all the sketches for the Mondrian collection
are small and have been glued to the classic sketch format. We could expect to see lavish sketches for this
collection because it’s the apex of our collection. But they are simple.
He just wanted to reproduce the painting. He redesigned all of this collection two weeks before
the show to include all Mondrian dresses. It was quick. It’s a stroke of genius! Each drawing has references of colors. This one
was worn with a coat made by the René workshop while the dress was made by the Catherine
workshop. It was worn by the model Mallaury. That would be the first drawing… The
adhesive tape isn’t right for conservation. When did you get the new dress? A few months ago. How did you spot it? An auction? Absolutely. It will require
a great work of restauration. The Saint Laurent museum can buy a few pieces
each year. In Dijon this dress was auctioned. The french preemption right was requested.
Do you know about the preemption right? If I am very rich and I said 10 euros. You can rise and say: it’s me
who pays the 10 euros and I win. Yes. It is a right given to us because the
museum bears the label Museums of France. The Ministry of Culture grants
this right if the piece is considered important for
the museum collection. And for France. And for French heritage indeed. We let the
auctions run, but the hammer have fallen, we get up and preempt it
in the name of France. The person who was buying the dress, loses. The dress is now part of the
inalienable French heritage. By its alteration we see the inside
of the dress. This dress is tailored The Haute Couture know-how is that all
the pliers are absorbed in the seam lines. The material is a jersey from the
House Racine. It’s called Paris Midi. It’s a thick jersey,
not a honeycomb but it’s a special mesh. Saint Laurent Paris.
A serial number. Made in France. There is a tiny zip. A small integrated zip. And a lining that is in silk pongee. What does it mean? Silk pongee is a silk
fabric, very thin and light. Saint Laurent uses a lot of zip and
it’s surprising how well they age. He integrates zippers by working with
the techniques of the music-hall. After one collection,
all the bottoms of sleeves are zipped. It’s the number 103 of the Haute
Couture Fall Winter 1965 collection. Is it the prototype that walked the show? The same prototype! What made the long-lasting
impact of the Mondrian dress of Saint Laurent is its immediate
and unanimous media coverage. While in 1965 the house is 4
years old and still fragile, the Mondrian dress ensures
success and economic survival. Hold on! We see that this dress Mondrian
made the cover of Vogue Paris. Here is a photograph of David Bailey,
one of the greatest fashion photographers. Another fashion spread, and you recognize
Veruschka wearing the Mondrian dress. Photographed by Irving Penn! Vogue Paris and Vogue US, still the two
largest magazines, shows the impact. David Bailey, Irving Penn, Peter Knapp. Exactly. What a casting! And that what is it? It was published in Jour de France. Jane Fonda
and Elsa Martinelli at the fashion show. One is wearing the Mondrian dress. Wait, this is the Mondrian fashion show
with someone wearing the Mondrian dress? Exactly. We don’t know the exact story
but we think it is a re-enactment. Le Figaro says “a two-tone style”. “It looks like a painting by
the painter Mondrian” Well seen! It’s always the dress
with the yellow stripe.. There too. And again. This is the best known. Because it’s the
most colorful and most Mondrianesque. There are many more Mondrian dresses. We display four of them. This is the
first time we have all four together. Three prototypes and a customer dress
that was donated by Françoise Giroud. Which? This one. Françoise Giroud wore that? How chic. This is the most famous sketch: it’s
there that we see the Mondrian dress. We see that there are others.
Especially the most cinched. He uses the lines of Mondrian
to emphasize the waist. We have the sketch but we also have the fabric samples that allows us
to know what color was the dress. Happiness, obsession, psychosis, madness of detail:
the Saint Laurent museum exposes the seating. Who was sitting where at this crucial
fashion show of August 6, 1965. Only 120 people could be seated. What is the best seat? Good question,
I think the best is there in B21. It’s a couch. It’s a couch, first. And we see that Miss Vreeland is here
so I guess she was rather well placed. At that time she’s editor
in chief of American Vogue? Or Harper’s Bazaar? Was she at Bazaar or Vogue at that time? I do not know you have to check. You do not know that?! Not by heart but we can check. There is Miss Charles-Roux. Edmonde Charles-Roux
that’s the French Vogue. Exactly. Miss Miller, Miss Sheppard.
Eugenia Sheppard. She wrote “Truly Hideous” for the
collection 71, the famous one. And she wasn’t wrong. I leave you your comments. Marie Louise Bousquet,
for Harper’s Bazaar in France. It is thanks to her that Yves Saint
Laurent and Pierre Bergé meet in 1958. She organized the dinner? Exactly. To the misfortune of Mr. Buffet. (Who was PB’s
lover at the time!). Poor Bernard Buffet. There is Françoise Giroud and that’s
the writing of Monsieur Bergé. Do you recognize his writing? Yes. A Saint Laurent sits in 48. She should be Madame
Mathieu-Saint Laurent, his mother. Gabrielle Busschaert told us, the buyers
were often placed here, closest to the exit. Because as soon as they came out of
the show they had to order right away. Today they are WhatsApping to the couture
director to option clothes during the show. We see that at Saint Laurent,
the outfits have no name, only numbers. As with Mademoiselle Chanel. She said
that the names were seamstress poetry. We stayed for three hours in front of the
seating chart, it was the best time of my day! Go to the Yves Saint Laurent
museum in Paris and Marrakech! Subscribe to my channel,
comment and activate the notifications

39 Replies to “YVES SAINT LAURENT: OBSESSING OVER THE MONDRIAN DRESS! By Loic Prigent”

  1. Salut loic jadore tes documentaire si tu veut voir ce que je fait je t'invite aller sur mon instagram c'est @rxcofficiel je suis axé sur le dessin et la mode deluxe !
    Merci d'avoir lu

  2. Hello Loic, firstly I want to say that your videos are treasures for us all people who love art and fashion and we thank you so much for sharing us.
    I'm a deaf person and I have deaf friends who watch your videos and we get frustrated that it's not accessible for us because of no English subtitles and we feel that we are missing out. Is there any possibility that you might make it happen? Much appreciated, sending you good vibes. 💌

  3. Ah finalement, un clin d'œil avec tous ces détails et mémoires !!! Quelle beauté avec ces merveilles Mondrian incrustées , merci encore cher Loïc et Julien !!!!!

  4. Hello Loic, I have a suggestion of mine if you don’t mind. Can you please add subtitles in english even when the person is speaking english. It’d be really helpful for the deaf community so they can know what you’re talking about

  5. блин французский такой красивый, ради него и смотрю, хоть нихера не понятно 🙂

  6. Great video as always! Your videos are such eye-openers to fashion houses. And thank you for the subtitles too, really appreciate it.

  7. I was there two days ago and was staring at the seating chart too!!! One of the most exciting things to see where all the editors sat! :D:D

  8. BEAUCOUP mieux en français aha, j'ai vraiment du mal à regarder vos vidéos en anglais, mais si je parle anglais très bien

  9. Je me demande comment ça se passe quand un couturier décide de s'accaparer de la composition d'un tableau pour construire un vêtement ! est qu'il y a des histoires de droits d'auteur à respecter ??
    Sinon merci pour tes videos assez enrichissantes 🙂

  10. Magnifique!!! La collection Mondrian est emblématique, merci de partager cette expérience au musée ISL avec nous. Personnellement, j’ai très envie de connaître cet endroit.😙

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *