MAKING A ST. GEORGE ART DOLL | St. George And The Dragon ⚔🐉

MAKING A ST.  GEORGE ART DOLL | St. George And The Dragon ⚔🐉


Greetings, and welcome
to The Dream Syndicate. Today we’re making a St. George art doll. So let’s get crafting! Make believe. If you’re a returning
subscriber, welcome back. And if you’re new here
and you wanna join us in making the imaginary a reality, don’t forget to subscribe
and hit the bell icon. What I’m doing here is
twisting wire for the spine and the legs of the St. George art doll. And leaving a little extra room here that’s gonna become the
feet of the character. I’m using that light pencil sketch that you might notice in the background to help me out, mark out
certain important points and features in the character. So I’m using it to help
me to mark out the point where the hips are gonna
fall, and the steel wire is gonna be wrapped around
with the aluminum wire and that’s gonna give the
character a lot of strength and stability to be able to
hold the rest of the armature. (magical playful music) Once you’re accustomed to making them, wire armatures are pretty easy to make but they’re complicated
enough that I could stand to do an entire video on this alone. So if you’re interested in seeing that, let me know down in the comments below. (magical playful music) I always work with my wire a little longer than I think I need it,
because if you have too much, you could just snip it off at the end, but if you have too
little, you’ve probably just messed up your armature. So here I’m wrapping around
the excess wire in on itself to help make the torso
be a little bit stronger. That length of wire I
used for the torso then is almost twice and long
as I needed it to be. I’m just winding it around itself. And I’ll do a similar thing with the lengths from the legs. I’m gonna wrap them
around, maybe wrap them around the hips as well. Now there’s another length of wire that’s gonna be used for the arms,
so I’m gonna twist that around and I have that piece of wire
hanging off that I can just sort of wrap the arm wire around the body and then twist that piece over top of it and help it to secure it to the armature. (magical playful music) Next I’m gonna take a
bit of plumber’s epoxy, so mixing a bit of that with my hands, you have five minutes before it sets, and making a sort of a
cylinder shape around the torso and then a flatter shape
around the pelvis area, and this is gonna be holding everything in place for us nicely. Once that plumber’s
epoxy’s set, I’m ready to cut out a body form
out of upholstery foam. It’s about a quarter inch
thick, and this is gonna give me the mass of the character. Now I’ll cleverly mark
this piece F for front and cut that out. (magical playful music) Then I’ll just go ahead
and use that front piece as a template to help me
cut out the back part. Labeling it B for back part. (magical playful music) And I’ll just take a moment to make sure everything looks good! Next I’ll mix up equal
parts of epoxy resin and I’m gonna apply that
both sides of the surfaces that will be touching the plumber’s epoxy and to the plumber’s epoxy itself. And then within the five
minute setting time for that, I will put these two pieces together. Smoosh them together like that, and you’ll just let it
sit for about an hour, and then you can handle it again. Now I’m gonna mark off where
the bend of the arm is, and then also on this aluminum tubing I’m gonna mark where the form will end and the wrist will begin. (magical playful music) Here I’m using my handy dandy
tubing cutter once again. And then I’ll just snip off
some of this excess wire. Now the time has come to go
from builder to tiny tailor. This fabric’s a bit heavier
than I would ordinarily use. It’s more of an upholstery weight fabric, but it has this cool metallic sheen to it and will make some really
great-looking chain mail which I want it to look like St. George is wearing a suit of chain mail armor. When making impromptu clothing
patterns for characters, I’m not super precise
because I count on refining a lot of the things while I’m sewing. Now I just fold over some of my seams, pin them in place, do that on both sides, and then I have my guidelines
to start sewing on. (magical playful music) If you wanted your seams
to be less apparent, you would pick a thick that
would blend in a lot more, like a silver thread
or some shade of gray. But I actually like characters
with visible stitching. I just think it looks neat in toy design or character design. It’s just always been
a cool element to me. So I chose this red thread
as a sort of accent piece and it’s also gonna coordinate
with some other elements that I’ll incorporate into the character. So we’re not leaving St.
George indecent, let’s go ahead and make some chain mail
pants for him as well. And when you’re making
tiny pants, it’s important to leave a little room for the sort of butt flap and crotch
flap part of the pants. (magical playful music) Now you can see all those
tendrily pieces sticking out. As I’d mentioned earlier, this
is upholstery weight fabric so upholstery weight fabric,
it doesn’t really work on small scale super well, so
you’re gonna have all these frayed and threadbare
pieces hanging off of it as you try to work with it. Everybody repeat after me: Your pincushion is your best friend. Your pincushion is your best friend. Does anybody else find sewing sleeves to be as fussy as I do? And you have to watch yourself because some parts of your
crafting become weaponized. (magical playful music) I did want to put some
proof in that I am sometimes tying off my knots, and you may also have a hard time with those. I have to put my thumb
at the edge of the knot and kind of keep pulling, and I’ll do that three or four times
’til I feel like I have a big enough knot it’s not gonna come out. Oh no! More weaponized crafting! (magical playful music) Now I’m gonna clamp St.
George’s chain mail pants out of the way so I can
make some shoes out of this plumber’s epoxy for him
that I’m just gonna shape with my fingers and a Popsicle stick here. Once those are set, I’ll
paint it a dark shade of brown with some acrylic paint
and then we’ll take some dark brown fabric and craft
some boots for St. George. (magical playful music) Now any knight worth his
sword is probably gonna have some sort of emblematic tabards, so that’s what we’re
gonna make for him now. (magical playful music) See, I told you I’d bring that
red thread in other places. And then I have a piece
of felt that I’m gonna use for the cross that’s gonna
be on the chest piece of the tabard which also
looks like that red thread. (magical playful music) Unfortunately our felt has
left us an epic level of fuzziness to remove, so
we have some drafting tape that we can just kind
of pull that up with. (magical playful music) So creepily enough while
walking the streets of Philadelphia, I happened
upon this knife sheath that I’m repurposing the leather from. So using that, a button, and
a little piece of steel wire, that’ll make St. George’s belt. Lastly I’m cutting out fabric
for the art doll’s gorget, or neck armor. Okay, minus being hairless,
this art doll is all done. Thanks so much for watching. If you wanna join me in
making the imaginary a reality weekly, don’t forget to
subscribe and hit the bell icon. Until next time, make believe!

5 Replies to “MAKING A ST. GEORGE ART DOLL | St. George And The Dragon ⚔🐉”

  1. So I find these really interesting and they make me wish I was more crafty.
    I would greatly like to see a whole video on some of the more complicated parts like the base wire armature.
    I think my grandmother has the same pincushion.

  2. Thanks for taking a look! You can see how this head was sculpted here: https://youtu.be/uAf3rD7hx0o

    Music Credits
    "Darkest Child" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
    Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
    http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

    "Pooka" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
    Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
    http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

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